Above: Chateau de Pesselieres. Picture courtesy Mouton_CRTCentreValdeLoire
The Loire Valley is renowned, particularly in the Middle Loire, for its magnificent Chateaux along the river, spectacular gardens, tourism choices and wide range of wines to discover.
Slightly less well known is Sancerre, a charming hilltop village in the east of the Loire Valley, but still famous with wine enthusiasts for the distinctive white wine made of Sauvignon Blanc grapes.
It has rustic charm, historical importance, good food, wine and friendly locals.
Last month I revisited Sancerre after a 10-year gap and it was well worth the short time we had. It rained, but it didn’t dampen our enthusiasm.
Brigid Kennedy (left). Picture courtesy Marion Groelly
DAY ONE
It took two-hours to drive from Paris to Sancerre, with fairly constant drizzle the whole way.
We arrived at Hôtel Panoramic in Sancerre, a central four-star hotel with fantastic views over the Valley and an inviting wine bar. The rooms here are comfortable and modern.
We dined at Le Clos du Marechal, a four-minute walk from hotel. This is a rustic restaurant with a welcoming vibe and fireplace, and a charming chef! The food was excellent. We enjoyed the freshest locally caught fish, cheeses and wine.
Wine tour. Picture courtesy Marion Groelly
DAY TWO
Next morning we visited Joseph Mellot Domain, one of the biggest and more prestigious cellars, with 500 years of history and family making wine.
You discover here the famous ‘terroirs’ and how they differ between Sancerre, neighbouring Pouilly-Fumé, Quincy, Reuilly and other appellations, but all also worth trying.
The wines are excellent. They have many options beyond tasting wines, such as vineyard tours and cheese tastings.
Back in Sancerre, we strolled the delightful village and lunched at Auberge Joseph Mellot. Yes, the same family name is everywhere. This is another inviting rustic space with a simple menu and good local produce.
Domaine Eric Louis was the next winery stop. I was familiar with the wines, having included them in Masterclasses, and was excited to see where the magic happens.
It was smaller and more modern but the wines were excellent and they also have a range of tourism options if you have more time.
Château de Pesseliéres was the last stop before heading back to Paris.
This was not a Château or gardens we’d seen the like of before. It conveyed imposing fortress with sophisticated Château charm.
This was a fortress during the 100-year war between the French and English. It was occupied by both sides at different times and survived surprisingly intact.
Jardins de Pesselieres. Picture courtesy Mouton_CRTCentreValdeLoire
Today, the beautifully restored park, crossed by a lovely river, contains a collection of remarkable trees, a 300-year-old-pathway, topiary walk, maze, kitchen garden and restored 18th century orchard.
The park is maintained organically and since 2013 has been listed as a ‘Jardin remarquable’. It truly is. We loved our restorative and delightful visit to these gardens and would enthusiastically recommend them for any itinerary you consider for this region.
Historic cellar. Picture courtesy Marion Groelly
ABOUT THE WINE
Sancerre is the birthplace of the Sauvignon Blanc grape and the benchmark worldwide for this wine style.
My first taste of Sancerre was in the 90s, picnicking with friends in the Luxembourg gardens of Paris and enjoying warm quiche, with a refreshing white Sancerre, perfectly cutting through the richness of the quiche.
It was delicious and I had no idea it was a Sauvignon Blanc, which I’d previously declared as my least favourite. No longer!
This is often the happy accident for wine fans travelling in France. When you’re unable to interpret wine labels, you discover wines you would never have considered tasting before.
France has a wine quality system based on “place” not just the grape variety, as they consider soil types, aspect, sun exposure, climate and grapes all contribute to the finished wine. The French call it “terroir”.
Brigid travelled to Sancerre from Paris with the support of Atout France & Loire Valley Tourism.
