Alison Finch (second from right)
Although I’ve travelled extensively around Japan, I had to double check the map when I was invited on the Japan National Tourism Organization and Linkd Tourism famil to discover the lesser-known gems of Kyushu.
Japan’s third largest island lies to the south of Honshu and is popular for its active volcanoes, natural hot springs, lush green countryside and of course some amazing food!
For me it was a chance to get off the beaten path and become immersed in the Japanese culture.
After a short two-hour flight from Tokyo, we began in the city of Fukuoka. We explored the Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, one of Japan’s most important Shinto shrines, followed by an array of tantalising smells as we stall-hopped at the Yatai food markets for dinner.
We spent the evening wandering the maze of twisting city alleyways, through neon signs and flashing lights, and watching buskers along the city’s canal area.
The following day we departed on the Yufuin no Mori scenic train – it didn’t take long for the scenery to change to green countryside and gorgeous rivers, the hillsides covered in thickets of bamboo.
The onsen town of Beppu was an absolute highlight of the trip. Famous for its hot springs, it is set on the edge of the sea, with a backdrop of mist-shrouded mountains. We visited the famous Hells of Beppu – too hot for swimming, these bubbling hot springs send plumes of steam swirling into the sky.
At the Jigoku Onsen Museum we learned just how much the hot spring culture is a part of life for the local community: they even use the natural steam vents to cook their food! There seemed to be an onsen (bathhouse) on every corner.
I didn’t try the local onsens because we were spoiled with our accommodation: our rooms at Kai Beppu Resort each had a private onsen on the balcony, with water views overlooking the bay.
Our journey continued into the mountain ranges of Miyazaki, through lush bamboo forests and checkered rice paddies. Takachiho is known as a power spot, a blend of natural beauty, spirituality and legends.
We had plenty of fun splashing about in rowboats as we tried to avoid going under the waterfall at the stunning Takachiho Gorge, then walked alongside the crystal clear river to visit Amano Yasukawara Cave Shrine, learning about the local mythological legends.
That evening we were treated to a cultural folk performance based on these tales – it was all in Japanese but I think I got most of the storyline!
We also visited Yamamura Sake Brewery, which lies in the shadow of Mt Aso, Japan’s most active volcano, then headed back to the big city lights of Kumamoto and a visit to the ancient castle, before heading out to an izakaya for our final dinner.
Of course, I must give a special mention to the food. Every meal was a standout occasion on this trip.
Highlights were yakitori and ramen at the Yatai-stall markets in Fukuoka, the six-course dinner in Kai Beppu Resort, Kappo-dori (traditional local dish cooked inside bamboo) and Takamori Dengaku no Sato – a charming restaurant inside a 200-year-old thatched roof building, surrounded by bamboo forest. Not to mention a glass or two of umeshu (plum wine) – my favourite.
What made Kyushu so special for me was the contrast between the busy, sparkling neon cities and the dramatic natural landscapes of volcanoes, mist covered mountains, bubbling hot springs, basalt gorges and waterfalls. Our guide described Kyushu as the ‘Land of Water and Fire’ and that was pretty spot on.
JNTO and Linkd Tourism are surely the experts in showing the diverse range of beauty Kyushu holds – a mixture of culture, mythology, history and stunning nature. My one piece of advice is to get there now before the secret gets out.
